2016 part iii

August: Elora Gorge (picture above) stormy hike with my parents taking shelter around outhouses (e.g. singing in the rain) + lovely farm-cation with both sets of parents in Erin Ontario (picture below in case we decide to try out for Amazing Race) as well as Halton County Railway Museum and brewery tour in Guelph

September: Mosel River castle walks

October: Slazburg Lake bike trip

November: Jazz @ UPstairs Lounge

December: Baby Moose @ City of Craft

A follow up to 2016 part i and summer days driftin away

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chrysanthemum pattern

I began with the question: When I visit Kyoto, should I purchase a tofu server made using the kiku-dashi (chrysanthemum pattern) technique?

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I ended with the realization: I can apply a sort of kind of similar technique to all the messy wires around our place.

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Still thinking about what I really want to take away from the Japan trip coming up in three weeks with some inspiration from the New Yorker: Initially, Muji included only forty different products, mainly food and household goods. Today, it is an independent two-billion-dollar company, selling more than seven thousand items ranging from furniture to soap. It keeps prices low by paying close attention to processing and packaging (most of Muji’s paper products are unbleached), and by using undesirable and industrial materials, which are cheaper in bulk (it once famously sold “U-Shaped Spaghetti,” made from the discarded ends of pasta).

shrines & temples

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Visiting shrines and temples is a big part of visiting Japan. Since there are so many many, I think it’s important to think about what I’m searching for.

TEMPLES

To be honest, I was not that that impressed with Sensoji in Tokyo. I did not realize that there were so many schools of buddhism in Japan. Chinese people tend to think that Japanese culture is very homogeneous.

My idea of Japanese buddhism was probably best represented by the Shingon school: “Huiguo had foreseen that Esoteric Buddhism would not survive in India and China in the near future and that it was Kukai’s destiny to see it continue in Japan” (wikipedia). What I was expecting was probably something like Kongōbu-ji (金剛峯寺) with its 140 granite stones. When we visit Koyasan this time, we will be staying at Jokiin (常喜院) across the street.

I’m thinking the atmospheric temple in Hou Hsiao Hsien’s Assassin is Kiyomizu-dera (清水寺) in Kyoto. Apparently, Japanese people say “jump down from the Kiyomizu stage” when they do something bold. Also looking forward to borrowed scenery in Tenryū-ji (天龍寺).

SHRINES

One thing I really enjoyed in Tokyo is seeing torii (鳥居) between random modern buildings. See Hie Shrine (日枝神社) above.

This time, we will be visiting Kumano Hongū Taisha (熊野本宮大社). Wikipedia describes its use of “natural unfinished materials” blending “effortlessly into the natural environment” which is exactly what I look for in a shrine.

In Kyoto, in addition to the famous famous Fushimi Inari Taisha, I’m looking forward to the Matatabi-sha Shrine (see below) which is right inside the shopping arcade. Also “Nishiki Tenmangū is home to a rather interesting form of fortune telling in the form of the Karakuri Omikuji. In glass cases, robotic shishi lions wait to be fed coins that will bring them to life, dancing to traditional gagaku court music as they move to fetch a paper fortune and drop it into the tray for you.” (discoverkyoto)

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traveling together

It was very clear from the beginning that we have different approaches to travel. Instead of pushing him to do all the things that I want to do, I figured it would be easier to start with his preferred approach and make changes slowly.

In 2012, our first ever trip together was a 9 day architecture tour of Chicago with three stops in Wisconsin.

In 2013, our 10 day visit to San Francisco included a bike trip around Napa.

In 2015, our 11 day trip around the Pacific Northwest included biking around Mt Hood and hiking along the People’s Coast.

In 2016, our 12 day trip to Germany and Austria included biking around Salzburg lakes, biking along the Mosel river and castle walks. The fact that we had an amazing trip despite getting off at the wrong train station and me suggesting that we walk to the next train station gave us a huge confidence boost.

This year, we are doing a 16 day trip to Japan with a stop in Vancouver. I don’t love big crowds but, having lived in Shanghai and Beijing, I have my ways of finding serenity in a sea of people. This is his first trip to Asia so not quite sure how he will respond.

For the three days in Kyoto, I’m thinking we can break it down into six segments. This way, if we get run over by tour groups, we will just tough it out knowing that a quiet break is right around the corner.

Segment #1: We are staying in an apartment in Nakagyō-ku (中京区) so I’m thinking we can kick off our first afternoon adventure at Cao Cafe Ishikawa (picture above) which is open from 11:30 to 3 am on Sundays. Nishiki Market followed by Nishiki Tenman-gū (天満宮). Pickle shopping at Murakamijyu Honten. Pontocho Alley followed by Shirakawa-minami Dori.

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Segment #2: 6 am bamboo forest stroll followed by coffee at % ARABICA (picture above). Walk across Togetsukyō Bridge (渡月橋) followed by exploration of Tenryū-ji (天龍寺): “The main 14th-century Zen garden, with its backdrop of the Arashiyama mountains, is a good example of shakkei (borrowed scenery)” (lonely planet). Looking forward to comparing and constrasting with Humble Administrator’s Garden, which is also famous for 借景. Followed by all you can eat lunch at Gyatei.

Ishibei-koji (石塀小路)

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Segment #3: Coffee at efish followed by pottery admiration at Kawai Kanjiro Memorial Hall. A stroll around Ninen-zaka, Sannen-zaka, Ishibei-koji (picture above).

Segment #4: 6 am Hōnen-in (法然院) visit. Climb to the viewpoint above Ginkaku-ji followed by lunch at Omen. Paper shopping at Kamiji Kakimoto followed by tea at Ippodo.

Segment #5: Walk around Nijō Castle from 3 pm to 5 pm (supposedly this place is very busy in the middle of the day). Tour Sanjo-kai Shotengai. Gotta see the Matatabi-sha Shrine which is right inside the shopping arcade.

Segment #6: 6 am walk around Inari-yama

hongu taisha (本宮大社)

On Google Map, Hongu Taisha (本宮大社) and Koyasan seem very close but getting from one place to the other is non-trivial.

Day 5: 10:32 Nara Kotsu Bus from Gojo arrives at Watarase-Onsen (渡瀬温泉) at 2:42, check out Yunomine Onsen (湯峰温泉) “an integral part of the over 1000 year old Kumano pilgrimage tradition. Pilgrims performed hot water purification rituals in these piping hot mineral waters after their long journey in preparation to worship at Kumano Hongu Taisha”

Day 6: 8:21 Ryujin Bus from Watarase-Onsen to Nonaka-no-Ipposugi (野中の一方杉), walk 6.5 hours to Hongu Taisha, take shuttle to Watarase-Onsen

Day 7: 8:21 Ryujin Bus from Watarase-Onsen to Takijiri (滝尻), walk six hours to Nonaka-no-Ipposugi, 4:12 bus to Watarase-Onsen (650 Yen)

Day 8: 8:21 Ryujin Bus arrive at Kii Tanabe at 10:15, 10:41 JR train arrive at Wakayama Station at 11:48, 12:09 train arrive at Sanjo Station at 1:34

My original plan was to use Yamato Transport to ship our luggage from Koyasan to Watarase-Onsen and stay at a couple different places along the trail but he doesn’t want to do shared bathrooms. The new plan involves taking the bus from Watarase-Onsen to different places along the trail but I think it’s worth it because Watarase-Onsen has a super nice private bath.

Here is the original plan.

Day 5: 9:55 bus arrives at Kurisugawa (栗栖川) at 1:25, walk 30 minutes to Kiri-no-Sato Takahara Lodge

Day 6: Walk six hours from Takijiri to Nonaka-no-Ipposugi, check into Irorian Minshuku

Day 7: Walk 6.5 hours from Nonaka-no-Ipposugi to Hongu Taisha, take shuttle to Watarase-Onsen

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